The Southwest, Petroglyphs, and Another Experience of the Past

We are in Santa Fe for a week after spending several days in Albuquerque. We are now fully immersed in the geography and the feel of the Southwest. The idea that New England, the South, and the Southwest are all part of the same country just boggles the mind.

Our sheltered picnic table at a campground just north of ABQ. In the middle distance is a bluff overlooking the Rio Grande.

The way the past haunted me while we were in the South has completely turned itself around in the Southwest. The past is everywhere here, too. But here the awareness of an area's past brings a feeling of reverence, respect, and awe. The landscape here is so breathtaking that it feels holy. Maybe it's possible to imagine a sort of romanticized vision of a life before strip malls and fast food and cars and advertising and modern chaos. Those images feel accessible when gazing across a landscape that is mostly open and uncluttered. Maybe it's just the bigness of the open spaces and the size of the sky. But it is hard to feel anything besides awe when gazing across this land. Pictures from a cell phone camera just aren't going to cut it.

We have visited a number of places where the mix of cultures that have defined the history of this region are visible in one place. There are many ruins of the Anasazi that were here longer ago than recorded time. There are many artifacts or ruins of the Pueblo tribes who were here before the Spanish arrived, and who are still here, in the same spot as their ancestors,  going as far back as can be traced. There is much evidence of the arrival of the Spanish, who came to "save the souls" of the native peoples. And, of course, evidence everywhere of the influx of Mexicans--well, of the fact that this used to Mexico--in textile patterns and foods, and the faces and voices of the people. It's all more visible here, in its individual parts, than in most parts of this country. It's very interesting. And the land is incredibly beautiful. The blueness of the sky against the red and gold of the rock, and the green of the piñon trees, just takes the breath away.

Among the most amazing of all of these things are the petroglyphs left on the rocks by people who were here about 700 years ago. No one knows for sure what the markings mean. Were they sign posts for people traveling in the paths of those who went before? Surely they were informational as well as
ceremonial, but all we know is the evidence that people were here a long time ago, and they lived a life that was very tied to the earth. How lucky we are to get to witness the evidence that they were here.

We were lucky to see wildflowers growing in the canyons.

This is what the rocks at Petroglyph National Monument look like when you're walking

This is what you see when you look up close

And the cities are interesting too. Albuquerque lacks some of the obvious charm of some of the places we have been. But the setting of the city is so spectacular, and it has a certain funky charm of its own. One of the best things we did was ride a tram up to the top of Sandia Peak. We had already been noticing the effect of the altitude. One day we were riding our bikes along the Rio Grande on a very nice bike path, and I kept thinking the wind must be blowing, because the riding felt harder than usual. Then I figured out that if you are riding at over 5000 feet above sea level, your lungs are just not quite the same! That tramway goes up a canyon to more than 10,000 feet, in about twenty minutes. When we got up there it was damned cold, first off (maybe 35 degrees with a 25 mph wind), but also both of us felt lightheaded and peculiar. But the view! Spectacular! And we timed it so that we would see the lights come on in the valley below, and see the sun setting. Really amazing.

 We have been lucky too that it is truly Spring here, too. It's still pretty cool during the day, and quite cold at night, but the flowers are blooming and the signs of Spring are everywhere.

Bandolier National monument, between Los Alamos and Santa Fe.

In Albuquerque

Also in Albuquerque

Today we are off to soak in the mineral spring waters at Ojo Caliente, about an hour north of Santa Fe. Santa Fe has charms that are so accessible, and it is so beautiful here, that there really isn't the need to leave. But who wouldn't benefit from a soak in the ancient healing mineral spring? I mean, really? Plus, Georgia O'Keefe's house at Abiquiu is on the way. Who could pass that up?